On the feast of Stephen (26
December), or any other day for that matter, the
best place from which to look out onto Wenceslas
Square will be the Prague Inn - specifically, from
the bathroom of room 205. The view extends the 750m
length of this narrow "square", with the statue of
the good king himself aboard his horse outside the
National Museum at the far end.
The hotel is so new that its
only outward sign is a drooping banner proclaiming
its name; it opened two months ago. Yet it occupies
the oldest building on the square, the Golden
Beehive, dating from the 15th century. The owners
gutted the upper floors and created a clean, sharp
interior - with the necessary security precautions
in this crime-prone city. Each landing has its own
chipcard access through heavy glazed doors leading
off the grey stone stairwell.
One part of the building that
was left largely in its original condition was the
deep, ancient cellar. This is now the restaurant
where an excellent breakfast (included in room
rates) is served.
On my first morning, right on
cue, the vault's plasma-screen TV offered MTV
showing "Bohemian Rhapsody" to accompany the coffee
and eggs. You can also eat outside at the
street-level café, no matter how deep, crisp or even
the snow may be, and watch the constant street
theatre in the Bohemian capital.
LOCATION, LOCATION
At the south-east end of
Wenceslas Square at 28 Rijna 378/15, Prague 1 (00
420 226 014 444;
www.hotelpragueinn.cz). The hotel is 50m from
Mustek metro station, where the A and B lines
intersect. The location is schizophrenic; there are
plenty of bars for the stag-weekenders, but high
culture can be found around the corner at the
Estates Theatre, where Mozart conducted the premiere
of Don Giovanni in 1787. It is a five-minute walk
from the Old Town Square with its Astronomical
Clock, and a 10-minute stroll to the Charles Bridge
for access to the castle and beyond.
Time from international
airport: with clear roads and a good driver (ideally
pre-booked at
www.prague-airport-shuttle.com, to avoid
rip-offs), you can make it from Prague's Ruzyne
airport in 20 minutes flat, for a very reasonable
600kcs (£15). Otherwise, bus 119 from the airport
takes you to the end of the metro line at Dejvicka,
four stops from Mustek.
COMFORTABLE?
The 34 rooms are a decent
size; their decor a good stab at designer chic. The
effect is more Habitat than Conran, however -
functional but not fizzing, and working hard for the
four stars. The beds are comfortable, and the
glazing keeps out the ambient noise from the square
pretty effectively.
The loo with a view sits in a
well-equipped bathroom even though the shower head
does not extend above head height if you happen to
be six feet or taller.
Freebies: unremarkable (but
effective) soap and shower gel.
Keep in touch: direct-dial
phone, satellite TV and, if you bring a laptop, free
internet access.
THE BOTTOM LINE
In low season a double with a
view costs €175 (£125), including breakfast. Book
via
www.travelcook.com, as I did, and you may be
able to get the same for €85 (£61).
I'm not paying that: Try Sir
Toby's Hostel (00 420 283 870 635;
www.sirtobys.com) from 290KC (£7) a night in a
dorm bed, 1,200KC (£28) for a twin room.
On the feast of Stephen (26
December), or any other day for that matter, the
best place from which to look out onto Wenceslas
Square will be the Prague Inn - specifically, from
the bathroom of room 205. The view extends the 750m
length of this narrow "square", with the statue of
the good king himself aboard his horse outside the
National Museum at the far end.
The hotel is so new that its
only outward sign is a drooping banner proclaiming
its name; it opened two months ago. Yet it occupies
the oldest building on the square, the Golden
Beehive, dating from the 15th century. The owners
gutted the upper floors and created a clean, sharp
interior - with the necessary security precautions
in this crime-prone city. Each landing has its own
chipcard access through heavy glazed doors leading
off the grey stone stairwell.
One part of the building that
was left largely in its original condition was the
deep, ancient cellar. This is now the restaurant
where an excellent breakfast (included in room
rates) is served.
On my first morning, right on
cue, the vault's plasma-screen TV offered MTV
showing "Bohemian Rhapsody" to accompany the coffee
and eggs. You can also eat outside at the
street-level café, no matter how deep, crisp or even
the snow may be, and watch the constant street
theatre in the Bohemian capital.
LOCATION, LOCATION
At the south-east end of
Wenceslas Square at 28 Rijna 378/15, Prague 1 (00
420 226 014 444;
www.hotelpragueinn.cz). The hotel is 50m from
Mustek metro station, where the A and B lines
intersect. The location is schizophrenic; there are
plenty of bars for the stag-weekenders, but high
culture can be found around the corner at the
Estates Theatre, where Mozart conducted the premiere
of Don Giovanni in 1787. It is a five-minute walk
from the Old Town Square with its Astronomical
Clock, and a 10-minute stroll to the Charles Bridge
for access to the castle and beyond.
Time from
international airport: with clear roads and a good
driver (ideally pre-booked at
www.prague-airport-shuttle.com,
to avoid rip-offs), you can make it from Prague's
Ruzyne airport in 20 minutes flat, for a very
reasonable 650kcs (£15). Otherwise, bus 119 from the
airport takes you to the end of the metro line at
Dejvicka, four stops from Mustek.
COMFORTABLE?
The 34 rooms are a decent
size; their decor a good stab at designer chic. The
effect is more Habitat than Conran, however -
functional but not fizzing, and working hard for the
four stars. The beds are comfortable, and the
glazing keeps out the ambient noise from the square
pretty effectively.
The loo with a view sits in a
well-equipped bathroom even though the shower head
does not extend above head height if you happen to
be six feet or taller.
Freebies: unremarkable (but
effective) soap and shower gel.
Keep in touch: direct-dial
phone, satellite TV and, if you bring a laptop, free
internet access.
THE BOTTOM LINE
In low season a double with a
view costs €175 (£125), including breakfast. Book
via
www.travelcook.com, as I did, and you may be
able to get the same for €85 (£61).
I'm not paying that: Try Sir
Toby's Hostel (00 420 283 870 635;
www.sirtobys.com) from 290KC (£7) a night in a
dorm bed, 1,200KC (£28) for a twin room.